Paint vs. Solid Stain for Exterior Home Siding
Paint vs. Stain for Exterior Home Siding
While paint and solid stain might look similar at first glance, there are important differences between the two. The biggest one is that paint sticks to the surface, while stain absorbs into the wood.
Stain has some obvious advantages; especially its ability to handle changing weather. It expands and contracts with the wood and allows it to breathe. On the other hand, paint forms a thick layer that dries faster and typically requires fewer coats because it’s thicker. However, if the wood is very absorbent, you may need more stain to achieve adequate coverage.
Deciding Which To Use
Stain
When choosing between stain or paint for exterior wood, it’s important to consider the condition of the wood. Solid stain works well on fresh, untreated wood because it soaks in better than paint and often doesn’t need a primer. But it’s not a good choice for surfaces that have already been painted.
Solid stain is a great option for new wood siding such as cedar shingles, or lapped siding, as it seals the wood and saves time and money by not requiring a primer. While it’s not ideal to apply stain over paint, you can easily paint over a solid stain later. For new homes, solid stain can be a smart option during the first few years.
Paint
Despite the benefits of stain, paint usually offers more protection, lasts longer, and comes in a wider variety of colors. When used on a previously painted or sealed surface, solid stain can look similar to paint but doesn’t provide the same level of protection or longevity.
Solid stains tend to fade faster than paint, which means they need to be reapplied more often. Because of this, paint is generally the better choice. However, if you’re working with bare wood and want to preserve its texture, solid stain can still be a good option.
Ultimately, the decision between paint and stain comes down to personal preference, location, climate, and the condition of the surface you’re working with.
Bullet Points
Stain:
Stain is usually cheaper than paint.
It’s easier to apply and touch up when needed.
Since stain often doesn’t require primer, the process is faster and usually only needs one coat.
It enhances the natural look of wood, giving it a rugged, natural appearance.
Stain is less likely to chip, while paint tends to peel, crack, or flake over time.
Paint:
Paint comes in a wider variety of colors.
It gives a smoother and more consistent finish.
There are more options in terms of sheens and finishes.
Paint can be applied over previous paint jobs (after prepping), while stain can’t.
How to Prep and Stain your Deck
Deck Staining
How to Prep and Stain your Deck this Summer
Staining your deck not only provides a fresh new aesthetic appeal, but also adds protection, therefore extending the life of your favorite outdoor space! But how do you prepare this surface to get the most value and longevity from your efforts?
Read on to learn all you need to know in order to protect your deck, and make it shine this summer.
Step 1 – Clear the Space
It’s best to remove all furniture from the deck. Shifting it around is an option but means you need to move it multiple times, and can scrape the wood, and means you have to wait for surfaces to dry prior to shifting locations, so it’s best to just remove it.
Step 2 – Tighten Screws, Nails, Loose Boards
Make sure that any screws or nails that may have popped up, broken, or rusted are repaired or replaced. Also, if there are any cracked, loose, or rotten boards or sections, now is an obvious time to repair or replace those.
Step 3 – Clean, Pressure Wash
In order to expect any life out of your newly stained deck, you’ll need to ensure that any mildew, mold, grease, grime, dirt and debris is removed. Here is the ultimate process for best results:
For Raw wood or previously stained wood - Make a Sodium Percarbonate (SP) solution of 1/2 cup of SP mixed with 4 litres of water. Here is a link for the SP powder: https://a.co/d/fbHLlOi.
Scrub Deck Boards – Use a stiff synthetic bristle scrubber connected to a broom handle or simply a hand-held brush, and scrub the SP solution into the surface. Let it sit for 15-20 mins, Make sure to do in sections small enough so that the SP solution doesn’t dry. Do sections at a time until the whole surface is complete.
Pressure Wash – If you have access to a pressure washer, now is the time to pressure wash off the SP solution and any remaining dirt, or debris.
TIP - to protect any nearby natural wood siding or plants, pre rinse those with water to keep cleaning solution from affecting those.
TIP - If the deck boards are hot - over 90 degrees - lightly spray it down to cool it. this prevents the SP solution from drying quickly upon application. Use can use a digital infrared thermometer like in the link: https://a.co/d/hO6Kjg8
Step 4 - Let dry
Let your deck dry until best moisture content is reached
*New deck boards will likely have more moisture content in them than years-old sun-dried deck boards. Staining new deck boards may not be the best idea until they have dried down to 15-12 percent humidity in the wood, or less. This is also the case for old deck boards – check the moisture content prior to staining. This can be checked with a moisture meter like in this link: https://a.co/d/cbAe0kV.
If you don’t have a moisture meter you can do a rough test by pouring a few drops of water on the deck. If it beads up, it’s too wet. If the water absorbs easily, its ready to be stained.
Step 5 - Sanding
o New wood - If the deck boards are new you need to remove the “Mill Glaze” which is found on relatively newly milled wood. Mill Glaze causes challenges for adhesion/absorption. Sanding with 80 grit sandpaper deals with this issue and promotes adhesion/absorption of your stain, or paint if you are painting the surface.
o Old wood - If your deck has had time to dry after construction or has previously been stained and has a few years life on it, etc., you can sand of the “dead skin” of the surface with 80 grit sandpaper to promote adhesion/absorption, as well as to smooth out any areas that have become tattered or splintered.
· Remove Sanding Dust – Rinse off the deck after sanding to ensure all sanding dust has been removed.
· Let Dry – Let your deck dry until the wood has reached an ideal moisture content between 15-12 %.
Step 6 - Select Brush/Roller
The basic rule is to use synthetic bristles/material for water-based paints/stains, and natural bristle/material for oil-based products. Its best to brush stain on entire deck with a 4” to 6” brush, however for a faster application use a 3/8” to 1/2” nap roller. To get between the gaps in the deck boards you can use a “Crack and Groove” brush, or scouring pads https://a.co/d/eOsHyrE. You can use the scouring pad as a single layer or fold them over for wider gaps. Dip pad in stain, and pull through deck board gaps.
Step 7 – Let’s Stain!
It’s time to stain! It’s best to avoid staining midday in full sun, so plan around that. Test your stain on a small hidden section of your deck and let dry, if possible, to ensure you like the colour. If all is good in that department, cut in tight spots with a brush, and brush (best application method), or roll the main open area (for faster application). After 4 hours apply a second coat and let dry. Wait 24-48 hours before putting your furniture back, and enjoying the deck.
Step 8 - Enjoy!
Crack a bottle of wine (or sparkling water), kick back and enjoy. You’ve earned it!
Now, if all that sounds like too much work for you, just give us a call! We will help.
Should You Sand Between Coats Of Paint?
Should You Sand Between Coats Of Paint?
Considering whether to sand between your coats of primer and paint? If so, the answer is yes if you want the most professional finish, and can afford the time!
Here's the rundown:
Picture this: a room with tired, scuffed-up paint that has been driving you crazy to look at.. First off, tackle any imperfections with drywall compound, then give it a good sanding with 120-150 grit sandpaper on a pole sander for a smooth finish. The pole sander is just for the convenience of being able to reach high areas. If you don’t want to spend the money on that, simply use the sandpaper with a flat block backing, and stand up on a chair or ladder. BUT!! Be careful!! Once that's done, wipe everything clean with a damp cloth and let the wall dry.
Following the fix-ups, you can then prime the ceiling and walls. Let this dry for at least an hour, then sand but this time with a 220-grit sandpaper to ensure any debris or fuzzies from the roller are removed. Wipe down the surfaces once more before applying your first coat of paint. Let your first coat of paint dry for 24 hours, then repeat the sanding and wiping steps with 220 grit sandpaper, before applying the second coat. 24 hours is a lomg time to wait between coats, so you can speed it up if the paint feels very dry after a couple hours, but be careful and sand lightly and carefully. You don’t want to muck up your coat of paint. However, it is best if you spread your painting over three days to allow proper drying time. Depending on your paint and walls, you might need a third coat for that flawless finish. However, if two coats do the trick, let the paint dry for 24 hours before giving it a final sanding with a 400-grit sandpaper for that extra touch of luxury. If a third coat is needed, lightly sand after the second coat with 220 grit sandpaper, following with the same damp cloth wiping process, then apply the final coat, sanding again after 24 hours with the final 400 grit sandpaper. Finish off by lightly wiping down the surfaces with a damp cloth. Now sit back with a glass of wine and enjoy the fresh new look!
Types Of Paint - What Paint To Use, And When
What Paint To Use, And When To Use It
Types of Paint – What paint to use, and when
The significance of painting to enhance visual appeal, protect surfaces, and preserve the structural integrity of your home or business cannot be overstated. This article examines paint types, and when to use them.
Interior Paints
1. Latex (Water-Based) Paint: Quick-drying, low odor, and easy cleanup, suitable for walls, ceilings, and most interior surfaces. Lowest VOC’s (volatile organic compounds)
2. Acrylic Paint: Water based and similar to latex paint, but offers better durability, color retention, adhesion and elasticity, making it ideal for high-traffic areas like hallways and kitchens. Higher VOC’s than Latex.
3. Oil-Based Paint: Known for its durability and smooth finish, often used on trim, doors, and cabinets, but less common due to longer drying times and strong odor, with more VOC’s than Acrylic.
4. Enamel Paint: A type of oil-based paint that creates a hard, glossy finish, suitable for areas prone to moisture such as bathrooms and kitchens. Oil-based Enamel paints are very high in VOC’s. Alternatively, you can also use a regular acrylic paint with a mildewcide additive for use in bathrooms and high humidity areas. Further, there are water-based enamel paints available with lower VOC’s and less impact on the environment, and occupants of the house, not to mention, the painter.
5. Chalkboard Paint: Allows surfaces to be used as chalkboards, commonly used in children's rooms, kitchens, and home offices, as well as commercial environments such as cafes, restaurants, daycares, and community centres.
6. Primer: A preparatory coating/sealer applied before painting to improve adhesion, coverage, and durability of the topcoat, available in both water-based and oil-based formulas, though care should be taken to ensure your top coats of paint are compatible with the primer. For example, if you use a water-based primer, you must use a water based top coat. On the other hand, if you use an oil-based primer, you can use an oil based paint (if available in your jurisdiction), or more commonly these days, an acrylic top coat.
Exterior Paints
1. Acrylic Latex Paint (a water-based paint with an acrylic binder): Highly durable, flexible, and resistant to fading, cracking, and peeling, suitable for exterior walls, siding, and trim. Satin or Eggshell sheens are best for home exterior because of the high hiding effects of these sheens. A satin will have a sheen that makes cleaning the surface easier.
2. Oil-Based Paint: Provides excellent adhesion and durability, particularly in harsh weather conditions, but requires proper surface preparation and longer drying times. Not available due to health and environmental concerns in some countries.
*See proper surface preparation blog coming soon*
3. Alkyd Paint: Offers superior adhesion and resistance to moisture, ideal for exterior trim, doors, and metal surfaces. Alkyd paints dry by solvent evaporation and cure by oxidation in approximately 5 days. They dry to a hard, glossy finish that is unmatched to latex paints. Not available due to health and environmental concerns in some countries.
4. Elastomeric Paint: Designed to stretch and contract with building surfaces, providing protection against cracks, water infiltration, and UV damage, commonly used on stucco and masonry.
5. Masonry Paint: Formulated to adhere to porous surfaces like concrete, brick, and stucco, offering weatherproofing and moisture resistance.
6. Primer: Essential for promoting adhesion, preventing/blocking stains, and enhancing the longevity of exterior paint finishes, available in various formulations for different surface types and conditions.
Each type of paint has its own unique characteristics, advantages, and applications, so it's important to consider factors such as surface type, climate, and desired finish when selecting the appropriate paint for a specific project.